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Oils, Waxes & Butters

ALMOND OIL: (Sweet) (Prunus dulcis) rich in essential fatty acids and Vit A, D&E, an elegant and luxurious carrier oil with great penetration

APRICOT KERNEL OIL: (Prunus armeniaca) rich in essential fatty acids, a luxury oil, similar to almond in consistency, emolliency and penetration

ARNICA INFUSED OIL: An infusion of arnica flowers in pure olive oil. Arnica has been widely used to treat bruises and sprains and is credited with a wide range of properties including antiseptic, anti-inflammatory, healing and stimulating, though I make no claims as to these properties in my products.

AVOCADO OIL: (Persea americana) excellent penetrating qualities, rich, luxurious and nourishing. Has a high degree of penetration into the epidermis and is a wonderful oil for hair.

BEESWAX: forms a network rather than a barrier on skin, allowing nutrients from oils and other products to be absorbed through the upper layers of the skin.

CARNAUBA WAX:(Copernicia cerifera) The sap of the Brazilian wax palm tree. A very hard wax which is commonly used in make up products.

CALENDULA INFUSED OIL (Calendula officinalis)an infusion of calendula flowers in pure olive oil. An excellent treatment for broken veins, bruises and helps relieve symptoms of eczema. (Price 2006)

CASTOR SEED OIL (Ricinis communis) is also known as Palm Christi oil, its use goes back to ancient Egypt as a massage and perfume oil base. Highly emollient and cleansing, it leaves skin soft and supple.

CETEARYL ALCOHOL/CETYL ALCOHOL/STEARIC ACID: are all produced from the reduction of palm oil and natural waxes, and are not 'alcohols' or 'acids' as we know it. They give emollience to the finished product and assist emulsification of oils and water. Many "oil-free" moisturisers use these waxes to add consistency and smoothness to the products.

COCOA BUTTER: (Theobroma cacao) is protective and acts as a water repellent, yet allows other ingredients to penetrate skin layers

CONDITIONING EMULSIFIER–BTMS: is produced from plant waxes and helps emulsify water and oils while conditioning the skin.

COCONUT OIL: Fractionated (Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides) emollient, softening and protective. Fractionation allows more penetration and makes a much lighter, less greasy oil

COCONUT OIL: Extra Virgin (Cocos nucifera) a deliciously naturally fragrant emollient oil which protects and moisturises as well as smoothing and softening skin. Gives hardness to soaps.

EVENING PRIMROSE OIL: (Oenothera biennis) rejuvenating, easily absorbed. High in GLA's (see rosehip). Assists in the repair and maintenance of skin tissue and has shown benefits for those with psoriasis. (Ferrando, 1986) and eczema (Kersher and Korting 1992)
I do not make claims as to these properties in my products.

EMULSIFYING WAX: (Cetearyl Acohol/Ceteareth 20) is a vegetable derived wax combined with fatty acids from vegetable oils which helps keep oils and waters together.

KOKUM BUTTER Garcinia Indica Seed has the ability to soften skin and heal ulcerations and fissures on lips hands and soles of feet. Kokum Butter helps reduce degeneration of the skin cells and restores elasticity. Escentials of Australia
I make no claims as to these properties in my products.

GRAPE SEED OIL: (Vitis vinifera) light and penetrating without the greasiness of heavier oil. Non-toxic and hypoallergenic (Price 1987)
No claims are made as to these properties in my products.

JOJOBA OIL: ( Simmondsia Chinesis) high in vitamins. Actually a wax, not a true oil so provides protection. Reduces moisture loss from skin, rapidly penetrating. Contains myristic acid, which is an anti-inflammatory agent.
No claims are made as to these properties in my products.

LANOLIN: is derived from sheep's wool. It absorbs water which is then slowly released for continued moisturisation of the skin

MACADAMIA OIL: ( Macadamia ternifolia) non-greasy and emollient - fatty acid composition is close to human sebum. Quickly absorbed and high in palmitoleic acid, needed to maintain soft smooth skin 

MANGO BUTTER: (Mangifera indica) is an evergreen native to the tropics. the butter is obtained from the fruit kernel and reportedly helps with wound healing and is protective against UV radiation.
I do not make claims of these properties in my products.

EXTRA VIRGIN OLIVE OIL: (Olea europaea) rich and emollient, an excellent oil for dry skin.

OLIVE BUTTER: is made from pure olive oil and hydrogenated vegetable oil

RICE BRAN OIL: (Oryza sativa) light, non-greasy and soothing. Credited with being a promoter of collagen formation. Naturally high in vitamin E.

ROSEHIP OIL: (Rosa canina) high in Vit A, emollient - nourishing and healing. Has been shown to regenerate skin cells. High in GLA's (gamma linoleic acids - if your skin is deficient in these, you will suffer skin dryness and will be prone to skin conditions such as eczema and psoriasis)
No claims are made as to these properties in my products.

SHEA BUTTER: (Butyrospermum Parkii) is a truly luxurious nut butter which is credited with healing and sun protection properties.
No claims are made as to these properties in my products.

Vitamins, Botanical Extracts and Humectants

ALLANTOIN: a healing extract found in comfrey root. Assists with the repair of damaged skin cells and stimulates the growth of healthy tissue.
No claims are made as to these properties in my products.

ALOE VERA juice or gel: healing, soothing, anti-itch. Excellent for scars or damaged skin. Studies have shown aloe contributes to improved collagen production.
No claims are made as to these properties in my products.

AUSSIE SPA MINERALS: Zeolites mined from the earth. Zeolites assist with ion exchange and draw toxins from the body.

BLACK WILLOW BARK EXTRACT: Natural Black Willow Bark Extract has been shown to possess potent antimicrobial properties. Efficacy testing has shown that the extract has activity against Staphylococcus aureus and Propionibacterium acnes, two of the skin flora implicated in the formation of acne. (Escentials of Australia)
No claims are made as to these properties in my products.

CALENDULA: an emollient said to have anti-itch, healing and anti-inflammatory properties. Suited to delicate skin.
No claims are made as to these properties in my products.

CARRAGEENAN: (chondrus crispus) Also known as Irish Moss, this is a seaweed grown on the Irish coast and is rich in iodine and sulphur. It is a thickener that naturally hydrates the skin and hair and contains an amazing array of nutrients such as chlorophyll, carotene, potassium, sodium, calcium, manganese, iron, iodine, copper, sulphur, vitamins & protein.

CHAMOMILE: soothing and healing with anti-inflammatory and repairer properties. Also considered bactericidal, anti-itching, soothing, antiseptic, purifying and refreshing.
No claims are made as to these properties in my products.

CLAY: Kaolin, French Argiletz, Spa Minerals and Bentonite are all forms of clay mined from the earth.

COMFREY: calming and healing. Contains Allantoin and is credited with healing, astringent and emollient properties. Traditionally used for eczema and sunburn treatment.
No claims are made as to these properties in my products.

d-PANTHENOL: (Pro-Vitamin B5) - moisturising and protective. Is absorbed into skin and hair cuticle 
 

GREEN TEA: a powerful anti-oxidant due to its catechin content, also known to be an anti-bacterial, anti-inflammatory and a stimulant. In clinical studies, green tea has demonstrated an ability to prevent onset of illness. This is attributed to the catechin component's ability to penetrate in to a cell, thereby scavenging free radicals. - (Michaulin and Michaulin 2001)
No claims are made as to these properties in my products.

GLYCERINE: a natural humectant (attracts water to the skin) and wetting agent that is an important part of the skin's natural moisturising factor.

HONEY POWDER: dehydrated honey. Natural skin softener, excellent humectant and is anti-bacterial.
No claims are made as to these properties in my products.

HYALURONIC ACID: (Hyaluronic Acid) Hyaluronic Acid is one of the most exciting ingredients on the market today. It was discovered by Karl Meyer in 1934 and has been successfully used in personal care and wound healing. Until the 1990’s the only method of producing hyaluronic acid was extracting it from rooster combs. Currently there are two forms of hyaloronic acid on the market; one from rooster combs and the other by fermentation in the lab. Skinflint uses only the vegan approved lab created version.
Hyaluronic acid is naturally found in the extracellular matrix of human tissue.
Topically applied, hyaluronic acid forms an air permeable layer and penetrates into the dermis, thus boosting the elasticity and hydration of the skin. The protective breathable barrier on the skin locks in moisture which gives the skin a youthful appearance. The cuticular layer of the skin normally contains 10-20% water, however as we age it can drop to below 10%. Hyaluronic acid comes to the rescue with its unique ability to hold more than 1000 ml of water per gram of hyaluronic acid, which is a key factor in allowing the skin to retain more water.
Amazingly, hyaluronic acid adjusts its moisture absorption based on the relative humidity in the air. It is the ideal ingredient in skin care products as it adjusts to the skin’s need for a moisturizing effect depending on the relative humidity of seasons and climate of an area. Hyaluronic acid also protects the epidermis by scavenging reactive oxygen species generated by ultra violet light which would normally cause sunspots.
No claims are made as to these properties in my products.

KAKADU PLUM EXTRACT: an Australian native with extremely high vitamin C content. Anti-oxidant properties.
No claims are made as to these properties in my products.

LACTIC ACID: an alpha hydroxy acid produced from milk and also found naturally in the body. See Malic Acid

LILLY PILLY: an Australian native rich in vitamin C and fruit acids. Renowned for its regenerative properties.
No claims are made as to these properties in my products.

MICA: a natural mineral from the earth that is often mixed with food & cosmetic safe colourants.

MSM: (Methylsulfonylmethane)  "naturally occurring nutrient found in plants, meats, dairy products, fruits and vegetables. MSM supplies sulphur to the body which allows it to heal itself. It produces muscle relaxation and reportedly a whole host of beneficial qualities. It has been used with great success in eliminating chronic back pain, muscle pain, repairing cut, scraped, burned and damaged skin. We've seen reports of MSM eliminating wrinkles, brown spots, skin tumours and spider veins. MSM is being used for burn victims and repairing scar tissue. Many people report relief from allergies after using MSM.

MSM feeds the formation of collagen and elastin while preventing and reducing cross-linking between cells, which is the primary cause of wrinkles and scar tissue."
(Escentuals of Australia)
No claims are made as to these properties in my products.

NETTLE: rich in minerals, anti-bacterial, deodorizing and stimulating. Considered effective for treatment of skin problems.  When used in hair care products, nettle extract reduces scalp irritation, nourishes the scalp and hair follicles, stimulates circulation and promotes healthy hair growth. Escentials of Australia
No claims are made as to these properties in my products.

QUANDONG EXTRACT: An Australian native which is high in essential fatty acids, important for maintenance of healthy skin and hair

SALICYLIC ACID: a natural Beta Hydroxy Acid (BHA). Known to be oil dissolving, it gently exfoliates within pores. Excellent for people with oily skin and blocked pores.

SEBUM REG: (Argania spinosa kernel extract) Botanical polyphenol-rich complex from argania spinosa kernel extract, serenoa serrulata fruit extract and sesamum indicum (sesame) seed extract. High content of lignans & phytosterols to control sebum production.
Effective long-term regulation of sebum production, reduces greasiness of the skin, prevents skin irritation, leads to smooth skin and improves skin appearance. In vivo test shows a decrease of 46% in severity of seborrheic skin condition after 30 days.

SODIUM LACTATE: a humectant which is naturally occurring on the skin. It is moisturising and moisture-binding (keeps moisture in the epidermis).
No claims are made as to these properties in my products.

SODIUM PCA: one of the skin’s Natural Moisturising Factors. It is a high performance humectant, attracting water to the skin and creating a soft appearance.

UREA: "Urea is naturally present in healthy skin, but when the skin is dry, and in some skin conditions, such as eczema, psoriasis and dermatitis, the level of urea in the skin is greatly reduced.

As a result of the reduced levels of urea, the water binding capacity of the skin is decreased and moisture is lost. This leads to roughness, tightness, scaly or flaky skin and irritation.

Applying urea directly to the skin increases the moisture binding capacity of the skin, thus rehydrating the skin, softening it and reducing cracking and roughness. It also helps reduce the cycle of itching and irritation, producing a localised anaesthetic affect, as well as the likelihood of flare-ups." Beiersdorf AG
No claims are made as to these properties in my products.

VITAMIN A: (retinyl palmitate) known as a skin normaliser. It acts as an anti-keratinizing agent, helping skin stay soft and plump, and improving the skin's water-barrier properties. It's also and anti-oxidant. Clinical studies with Vitamin A palmitate indicate a significant change in skin composition, with increases in collagen, DNA, skin thickness and elasticity. (Michaulin and Michaulin 2001)
No claims are made as to these properties in my products.

VITAMIN E: (D-alpha-tocopherol) is considered the most important oil-soluble anti-oxidant and free radical scavenger. Studies indicate that vitamin E performs these functions when applied topically. It is well absorbed into the skin and has excellent moisturising qualities. There is also evidence to suggest that vitamin E is effective in preventing irritation due to sun exposure. (Michaulin and Michaulain 2001)

WHEAT PROTEIN: has elastic and binding properties, helping reduce the irritating effect of surfactants. Moisturises and conditions skin & hair.
No claims are made as to these properties in my products.

WHITE WILLOW BARK: natural Beta Hydroxy Acid due to its salicylic acid content. Beta Hydroxy Acids exfoliate from within the pores, dissolving the build-up of sebum and dead skin cells and dead hair which create blackheads.
No claims are made as to these properties in my products.

Preservatives & Antioxidants

LIQUID GERMALL PLUS: (Propylene Glycol [vegetable derived], Diazolidinyl Urea and Iodropropynyl Butylcarbamate) a broad spectrum antimicrobial which is effective against bacteria, yeasts and moulds. A safe and effective preservative system for water in oil formulations

PHENOSERVE: (Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben, Butylparaben, Ethylparaben, Propylparaben) a broad spectrum antimicrobial which is effective against bacteria, yeasts and moulds. Some studies are claiming that parabens are absorbed into the skin and will build up if they are used in leave on products. I'm not 100% convinced of this, but am not prepared to take the risk, so I only use them in wash off oil based products.

ROSEMARY LEAF EXTRACT: Natural Rosemary Extract is an antioxidant which prevents rancidity of oils.

UNIGERM II: (Propylene Glycol, Diazolidinyl Urea, Methylparaben, Propylparaben) a safe and effective broad spectrum preservative system. This is different from Phenoserve in that it contains no Butylparaben.

VITAMIN E: (D-alpha-tocopherol) offers natural preserving and antioxidant qualities.

Surface Active Agents/ Emollients/Solubilisers etc

ALMOND GLYCERIDES: (PEG 60): a mild non ionic surfactant from almond oil which provides emolliency to cleansers without stripping oils from the skin.

CETRIMONIUM CHLORIDE:A highly substantive and powerful cationic conditioner that imparts excellent conditioning and softening effects for hair.

COCO BETAINE: (cocamidopropyl betaine): Derived from coconut oil, this is a mild surfactant which is commonly found in gentle baby formulations

DIMETHICONE & CYCLOMETHICONE: Silicone oils are derived from silica (sand and quartz are silicas). Dimethicone offers skin protection with a light touch, helps provide protection for damaged skin. Cyclomethicone is an emollient used in hair conditioner to help the hair cuticle sit flat (stopping frizziness). It is also an excellent carrier for delivering active ingredients

POLYGLUCOSE: (decyl glucoside) Polyglucose is considered to be part of a new generation of surfactants. This nonionic surfactant is extremely mild and gentle, and is naturally derived from sugar.

POLYSORBATE 20 & 85: widely used safe and gentle non ionic surfactants and oil in water solublisers

OLIVE ESTERS:(Olive oil PEG- 7 Esters)  This natural olive ester is derived from olive oil and provides extraordinary hydrating performance and mildness and exhibits excellent film-forming properties. Compatible with all skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin, Olive Esters offer extra nourishment and long term moisturising effects. Olive Esters are extremely proficient in avoiding dry and tense skin caused by over-cleansing or exfoliating. (Aussie Soap Supplies 2007)
No claims are made as to these properties in my products.

GLYCERYL COCOATE: (PEG 7): a gentle non ionic surfactant and solubiliser (dissolves oils in water). Also a mildness additive.

POLYQUATERNIUM-7: A cationic conditioning agent. Provides good wet-combing ability, protecting wet hair from being stretched and damaged.

SCI: (Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate) Derived from coconut oil, SCI is one of the gentlest surfactants available.

SHAMPOO ULTRA THICK: (Peg 150 Pentaerythrityl Testrastearate) - a vegetable derived thickener and counter irritant.

SLSa: (Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate) This anionic surfactant has been used in the commercial personal industry for over 30 years. It's mild and non drying to the skin and has excellent hard water tolerance.

SODIUM LAUROYL SARCOSINATE: A mild sulphate free anionic surfactant derived from lauric acid, a component of coconut oil. It's considered one of the safest surfactants, so much so it's used in leave on products and in products such as toothpaste. Although it's initials spell 'SLS', this is a very different surfactant to the very cheap readily available SLS (Sodium Lauryl Sulfate) which many people like to avoid.

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